Ford Five Hundred 2007 — Problemas reportados

It's starting not going into highway gears (5&6) just revs real high and when it does finally, it kicks really hard. Sounds and feels like it's going to drop out from under the car.

AFTER DRIVING HALF-HOUR IN HIGH-WAY SOUTHWARD ON I-45 IN THE MORNING. THE CAR CANNOT BE ACCELERATE AT AROUND 40MPH WHEN I RAMP UP TO 288, AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT TURNED RED. SECONDS LATER, IT RECOVERED BACK. 2 MINUTES LATER, IT HAPPENED AGAIN . AND AGAIN . SO I PARKED IT . ~8-HOURS LATER, I STARTED IT AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT RED AGAIN. SECONDS LATER, THE ENGINE STOPPED WHEN I BACK THE CAR. I STEPPED ON GAS-PEDAL WHEN I TRIED 3RD TIME, AND THE CAR MOVED AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT KEPT RED. 10-MINUTS LATER, WHEN I DRIVE ON 288-SOUTH AT ~60MPH, BOTH OF THE REPAIR LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT TURNED YELLOW AND THE AUTO-LOCK LIGHT OFF, SECONDS LATER, THE REPAIR LIGHT OFF. THE ENGINE LIGHT KEPT ON. SO I GET DOWN THE HIGHWAY, CANNOT ACCELERATE CAR WITH GAS-PEDAL ON AND CANNOT TURN STERRING WHEEL, THE CAR SLOW DOWN AND STOPPED BY ITSELF. 5-MINUTES LATER, I STARTED IT AGAIN WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON WITH YELLOW, THE CAR MOVED AND 10 MINUTES LATER, I PARKED IT HOME.

I HAD THIS CAR REPAIRED TWICE AT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC SHOP THAT COST ME THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS. EVERY TIME, THE CAR COMES TO STOP OR DIES ON ME. I REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER ONE TIME THAT IS UNDERNEATH THE CAR. NOW THE CAR IS SITTING IN MY GARAGE BECAUSE OF THE FUEL PUMP NOT FUNCTIONING AND DOES NOT MAKE THAT SOUND ANYMORE WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON.

IT BEGAN WITH THE 12 VOLT NOT WORKING. PUT IN NEW FUSE IT BLEW. THEN INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEEDOMETER GOES BLACK, IF YOU GOT THE DASH IT COMES BACK ON THE BATTERY GOT COMPLETELY DRAINED BOUGHT A NEW ONE. STILL HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE . NOTICED A MILLION OTHER COMPLAINTS THE SAME SHOULD THIS NOT BE INVESTIGATED? A SODERING DEFECT OR ELECTRICAL SHORT DRAINING BATTERY, IT'S OBVIOUSLY A VEHICLE DEFECT. ISN'T FORD A BIG ENOUGH COMPANY TO TAKE CARE OF THIS INSTEAD OF IGNORING IT? THIS IS ON A 2007 FORD 500, LOW MILES. THIS HAPPENS SITTING STILL OR DRIVING.

CAR IS LEAKING FUEL FROM THE GAS TANK AREA, LOOKS LIKE ITS LEAKING FROM THE FILLER NECK. AT TIMES IT LEAKS A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT. I'M ALSO HAVING SURGING ISSUES. MAINLY AT LOW SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE HAS ALSO SHUT DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. THESE PROBLEMS TRULY CONCERN ME AND I QUESTION THE SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE AND MY CHILDREN AND MYSELF WHILE IN THIS VEHICLE.

I DON'T KNOW IF THIS BELONGS IN ENGINE OR FUEL/PROPULSION SYSTEM. THERE WAS NO MENTION OF 'GAS PEDDLE' IN EITHER. THE DATE OF 07/17/2013 IS APPROXIMATE. IT MAY HAVE BEEN BETWEEN 2013 - 2015. I AM NOT SURE OF THE EXACT DATES. IT WAS WHEN I WAS GOING TO A PAIN SPECIALIST IN BUFFALO AFTER MY REAR-END ACCIDENT IN MY PREVIOUS CAR IN JULY 2012. LOCATION - I-190 & NY-198 BUFFALO, NY 14207 42.930405, -78.899552 MERGE RAMP FROM THE NY-198 TO THE I-190 NORTH. 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED THE PROBLEM: THE GAS PEDDLE STUCK WHEN I HAD TO DO A FAST ACCELERATION / I FLOORED IT. I HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PRESS THE GAS PEDDLE A COUPLE TIMES TO GET IT UNSTUCK. I HAD IT IN TO THE FORD DEALER WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND THEY FIXED OR CLEANED SOMETHING. THE FORD DEALER SAID THAT IT WOULD COST ABOUT $400.00 TO REPLACE THE COMPONENT IF THIS DIDN'T WORK. IT HAPPENED AGAIN WHEN I DID ANOTHER FAST ACCELERATION. I WAS ABLE AGAIN TO GET IT UNSTUCK. I HAVE NOT HAD THE OCCASION TO DO A FAST ACCELERATION SINCE. I DON'T RUN IT FAST IF I CAN HELP IT.

THE ANTI THEFT IS ON

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FLASHES THEN GOES BLACK WHILE DRIVING. INTERIOR EXTERIOR AND GAUGE LIGHTS GO BRIGHT AND DIM AND GO OUT ALTOGETHER WHILE DRIVING. CAR DIES WHILE MOVING. BATTERIES ONLY LAST 1 YEAR FROM BEING DRAINED. NO ALTERNATOR ISSUE PER 3 DIFFERENT MECHANICS.

DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT SOCKET BURNS OUT THE BULB. THE BULB HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES IN THE PAST THREE MONTHS. THE ENTIRE LIGHT SOCKET UNIT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THE SERVICE TECH INFORMED ME THAT WAS A PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL VEHICLE.

VEHICLE SURGES WHEN YOU LET OFF THE BRAKE. THIS STARTED SHORTLY AFTER WE PURCHASED THE CAR A COUPLE YEARS AGO. THEY EITHER SERVICED OR REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY AND THAT WORKED FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS OR SO. NOW THE CAR SHAKES REALLY BAD ANYTIME WE HAVE TO STOP AND HAVE TO KEEP FOOT ON THE BRAKE REALLY HARD, SOMETIMES THE CAR DIES DURING THIS TOO AS WELL AS GOING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. AS SOON AS YOU LET OFF THE BRAKE THE CAR ACCELERATES, CAN MAKE IT UP TO ALMOST 40 MPH WITHOUT EVEN TOUCHING THE GAS. IT RUNS HORRIBLY IN THE HEAT TOO. ANY TEMP OVER 70 IT JERKS INTO 2 OR 3RD GEAR HARD WHEN STOPPING AND GOING.

THROTTLE HAD IT FIXED WITH RECALL, IT LUNGES YOU INTO TRAFFIC WHILE STOPPED. AGAIN IT HAS DONE THAT NOW FAILED, THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR. IT IS GARAGE KEPT AND WELL MAINTAINED WENT DOWN TO GET GAS, MAIL AND WHILE STOPPED IT JERKED ME OUT OF THE STOPPED POSITION INTO THE MAILBOX THEN THE WRENCH, TRACTION AND ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND IT BUCKED TILL I GOT IT 10 FEET TO THE GARAGE NO, IT WILL NOT START!!! TO EVEN GET IT TO THE DEALERSHIP OR GARAGE, ITS A SAFETY FEATURE I WAS TOLD, THE WAY IT LUNGES IS DANGEROUS, I ALMOST WENT THROUGH HE GARAGE WALL WHICH IS CONCRETE, LAST TIME I HIT MY TEETH ON THE STEERING WHEEL AND KNOCKED ONE BACK OUT OF ALIGNMENT. WHICH THE FORD PERSON THOUGHT WAS FUNNY LAST TIME. FORD KNOWS THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR, IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AND THESE SHOULD BE CRUSHED LIKE THE DEMON CAR THEY ARE. PEOPLE SPEND HARD EARNED MONEY ON THESE VEHICLES ALL FOR THIS TO HAPPEN?

PERIODICALLY BUT OCCURING MORE OFTEN. ONCE THE CAR IS PLACED IN DRIVE OR REVERSE BUT FOOT STILL ON THE BRAKE, ONCE THE BRAKE IS RELEASED THE CAR QUICKLY AND AGGRESSIVELY ACCELERATES ON IT'S OWN WITHOUT PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL AND WITH VERY LITTLE REACTION TIME YOU HAVE TO SLAM THE BRAKE PEDAL TO MAKE THE CAR STOP AND THEN THE CAR CUTS OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 4 TIMES WITHIN THE LAST MONTH. VERY DANGEROUS! I HAVE RESEARCHED RECALL INFORMATION FOR THIS MODEL AS WELL AS MY DIRECT VIN NUMBER ASSOCIATED WITH MY VEHICLE BUT I HAVE YET TO FIND A RECALL. HOWEVER I HAVE READ MANY REVIEWS OF THE SAME ISSUES WITH OTHER FORD 500 OWNERS.

FUEL TANK FAILURE ,FUEL LEAK, VAPOR LEAK. THIS DUE TO A FAILURE OF THE SEALS ON THE FUEL TANK ALONG WITH THE DETERIORATION OF THE MOUNTING BRACKETS ON THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL SENDING UNITS.

DASH PANEL LIGHT GO ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING, REVERSE LIGHTS COME ON AND CAR WANTS TO STALL. PUT NEW BATTERY IN AND HAD ALTERNATOR REPLACED STILL HAVING PROBLEM. CAN NOT DRIVE CAR BECAUSE OF SAFETY RISKS. BEEN DOING THIS FOR A MONTH AND STILL DOING IT EVEN AFTER REPAIRS DONE BY MECHANIC.

MY RPM GETS HIGH AND IT JOLTS WHEN I SHIFT FROM PARK TO REVERSE OR NEUTRAL. IT IS WORSE WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON. HAVE ONLY HAD THIS CAR FOR 4 WEEKS AND HAS LESS THAN 103,000 MILES ON IT.

SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR IN 2007 I AM ON MY 4TH BATTERY. THE BATTERY WILL JUST DIE AND STOP HOLDING A CHARGE. THE DEALER CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. EVERY TIME THE CHARGE IT, THE CAR JUST DRAINS IT. THE BATTERIES ON OVERAGE ONLY LAST AROUND 2 YEARS. WHEN I GO UP AND DOWN STEEP HILLS MY CHECK BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON, BUT ONCE ON LEVEL THE LIGHT GOES OUT. MY CAR IS FINE AND THEN I GO TO START THE CAR IT WON'T START. NO WARNING WHAT SO EVER. THE CHECK BATTERY LIGHT NEVER EVEN COME ON. UNLESS OF COURSE WHILE I AM DRIVING UP OR DOWN A STEEP HILL. I LIVE IN SPOKANE WASHINGTON, BUT I HAD TO HAVE THE BATTERY REPLACED ONCE WHILE I WAS ON VACATION IN MONTANA. SOMETHING HAS TO BE DRAINING THE BATTERY BUT WE CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHAT IT IS.

WHEN PLACING THE CAR IN REVERSE OR DRIVES IT REVS. IN ORDER TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT I HAVE TO ENSURE THAT MY FEET ARE ON THE BRAKES AT ALL TIMES! THERE HAVE BEEN INSTANCES WHERE I'VE ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT ME!

THE CAR SURGES SEVERAL FEET WHEN YOU RELEASE THE BRAKE. IT WILL DO THIS MOVING FORWARD OR WHEN BACKING UP. THE CAR LITERALLY JUMPS A FEW FEET AND YOU MUST APPLY THE BRAKES IMMEDIATELY OR RISK HITTING ANYTHING CLOSE. IT MAKES IT VERY HARD TO PARK AND WORRIES US A LOT WHEN AT STOPLIGHTS WITH PEDESTRIANS CROSSING. THE CAR CAN BE A AT A COMPLETE STOP OR SIMPLY RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL IN A TURN , BACKING UP OR GOING STRAIGHT, IT IS VERY SCARY. THE SURGE USUALLY IS MORE OF A JUMP OF 2-4 FEET. THE INTERNET IS CHOCK FULL OF CUSTOMERS WITH THE SAME COMPLAINT.

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

PAINT IS BUBBLING ON HOOD WHICH RESULT IN TOTAL CORROSION OF ALUMINUM HOOD. HOOD MAY EVENTUALLY RUST THROUGH AND SEPARATE FROM FRAME.

CAR IN THE MORNINGS IS ACCELERATED AND WHEN PLACED IN REVERSE IT MOVES BY ITSELF VERY ACCELERATED AND ITS PARKED ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH NO SLOPES. TRANSMISSION FEELS AS IF RUNNING FORCEFULLY BUT CHANGES GEARS I GUESS FINE JUST GOT THE CAR AND HAS LOW MILES AT 27000 MILES. AND DOES IT EVERYDAY.

WHILE DRIVING ONE DAY, MY CLUSTER PANEL WENT DARK. AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT MAY BE THE BATTERY, WHICH WOULD ALSO CAUSE THE CAR TO DIE. HOWEVER, THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING. WHEN I DROVE IT TO MY MECHANIC, IT DID THE SAME THING BUT BEGAN FLICKERING ON AND OFF THE WHOLE WAY THERE. NOT ONLY WAS IT ANNOYING, BUT I COULD NOT SEE MY SPEED NOR MY GAS GAUGE. ADDITIONALLY, WHEN I TRIED TO USE MY EMERGENCY LIGHTS, THEY WOULD ALSO GO OFF WHENEVER THE PANEL WENT OUT. THE REPAIR OF THE WHOLE CLUSTER PANEL IS NOT CHEAP. AN ESTIMATE FOR ME WAS $900 FROM MY MECHANIC. SINCE IT WILL HAVE TO BE PROGRAMMED HOWEVER, I WILL HAVE TO TAKE IT TO FORD WHICH IS A PAIN IN ITSELF. THERE ARE COUNTLESS REVIEWS ON THIS PROBLEM, IT SHOULD NOT BE LEFT UP TO THE CONSUMER TO TAKE ON SUCH A SIGNIFICANT EXPENSE. MY CAR HAS ROUGHLY 62,000 MILES ON IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO LOCATE THE ORIGIN OF THE NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

AT A STANDSTILL, CAR SEEMS TO WANT TO SURGE FORWARD, HAVE TO BRAKE TO KEEP FROM HITTING OTHER CAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND TURNED OFF, THE PASSENGER SIDE MIRROR CAUGHT FIRE. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

THE VEHICLE HAS UNINTENDED ACCELERATION ISSUES. THERE WAS AN INVESTIGATION BY THE NHSTA BUT NOTHING CAME OF IT. THE CAR STILL ACCELERATES ON ITS OWN WHEN I PULL INTO PARKING SPACES OR LEAVING PARKING SPACES. I HAVE TO KEEP MY FOOT ON OR BY THE BRAKE PEDAL AS TO NOT HIT OTHER CARS OR PEOPLE. HAVING THE AIR CONDITIONING ON SEEMS TO WORSEN THIS PROBLEM SUBSTANTIALLY. IT IS COMPLETELY RANDOM AND I KNOW I'M NOT THE ONLY PERSON THAT HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE. PLEASE REOPEN YOUR INVESTIGATION AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE BOTH THE AC ON AND OFF. IT'S MAINLY WHEN IT IS ON, BUT STILL COMPLETELY RANDOM. I DON'T KNOW HOW PEOPLE AND PROPERTY HAVEN'T BEEN INJURED OR DAMAGED AS A DIRECT RESULT OF THIS WELL KNOWN ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THERE WAS A DELAY IN ACCELERATION. THE CHECK ENGINE AND TRACTION CONTROL WARNING INDICATORS WERE ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 149,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED. WHILE PARKED, THE CONTACT SMELLED AN EXTREMELY STRONG FUEL ODOR OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE RECURRED SPORADICALLY. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 11V355000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND MY VEHICLE WILL GO INTO LIMP MODE AND HAVE NO POWER, WHEN I PULL OVER AFTER ALMOST SMASHING UP THE CAR JERKED AND I SHUT IT OFF AND TURN IT ON ITS FINE BUT THIS SAME PROBLEM KEEPS OCCURRING EVERY DAY AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS. I HAVE A TRICK I PUT IT IN NUTRAL AND SHUT IT OFF WHILE IM DRIVING AND THAT WILL CORRECT THE PROBLEM, IT WILL DO IT TEN TIMES IM A ROW AND ITS VERY DANGERIOUS, I WENT TO THE DEALER AND PO 701 CODE CAME UP AND THEY SAID OT A INTERNAL FAILURE AND FOUND NO METAL SCRAPS UNDER THE PAN FILTER, SO FAR THEY SAOD THE TRANSMISSION IS NO GOOD AND CANT BE REPAIR BUT AFTER 15,000 MILES LATER THE CAR STILL DRIVES BUT DOES THAT EVERYDAY, IS THERE AMYTHIMG I CAN DO TO REPAIR THIS TRANSMISSION I CANT AFFORD THE $7,500 PRICE QUOTE THEY SAID. I. NEED HELP WITH CAR AND STILL DRIVING IT TILL THIS DAY 5 12 15

MY THROTTLE BODY WENT COMPLETELY OUT AT 99481 MILES. I PAID APPROX. $800 FOR THE REPAIR/REPLACEMENT. FORD MOTOR COMPANY REIMBURSED FOR THE SERVICE ON 12/11/2012 AFTER SO MANY COMPLAINTS HAD BEEN MADE ABOUT THE THROTTLE BODY IN THIS MODEL THAT THEY WERE PAYING FOR PREVIOUS SERVICES FOR ANY REPAIRS/REPLACEMENTS MADE FOR THIS PART. I BELIEVE THE REPLACEMENT PART USED WAS ALSO DEFECTIVE, AND MADE MENTION OF MY CONCERN TO MY FORD DEALERSHIP AT THE TIME. THEY AGREED THAT THERE WAS NO GUARANTEE THAT I DID NOT RECEIVE A DEFECTIVE REPLACEMENT PART AS THE NEW PART THEY WERE USING A YEAR LATER WAS DIFFERENT. I HAVE HAD MY REPLACEMENT THROTTLE BODY CLEANED AND RE-PROGRAMMED SEVERAL TIMES (AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR SINCE THE REPLACEMENT). FORD MOTOR COMPANY WILL DO NOTHING NOW THAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD I NEED A NEW THROTTLE BODY WHICH IS ABOUT AN $800 REPAIR. FORD MOTOR COMPANY NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING TO MAKE THOSE OF US, WHO RECEIVED A FAULTY OR DEFECTIVE REPLACEMENT PART, US WHOLE. I HOPE THAT OTHERS WILL MAKE IT KNOWN IF THEY HAVE HAD A DEFECTIVE REPLACEMENT THROTTLE BODY. *TR

THE CAR WILL SURGE WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR. DOES IT IN DRIVE AND REVERSE. I HAVE TO KEEP MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE UNTIL I AM AWAY FROM A CAR OR BUILDING AS IT WILL JUMP INTO THEM. I NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO DO IT. I ESTIMATED WHEN IT STARTED AND IS STILL DOING IT. *TR

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE STREET AT MIDNIGHT THE CAR WARNING LIGHTS STARTED TO COME ON (ABS, BATTERY, TRACTION CONTROL, AND FINALLY THE FACTORY STEREO/GPS UNIT) ONE BY ONE. THEN FOLLOWED BY THE DASHBOARD ILLUMINATION GOING OUT WHICH MEANS I NOW HAD NO TAILLIGHTS. THEN FINALLY LOST ALL ACCELERATION AND THE CAR JUST STOPPED. LUCKILY, I WAS ABLE TO ILLEGALLY PARK THE CAR BLOCKING A DRIVEWAY AND FIRE HYDRANT. HAD I BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY I MAY HAVE HAD A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENDING. A WEEK AFTER THE MECHANIC REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SHUT DOWN AGAIN ONLY I GOT NO LIGHTS ON, IT JUST DIED. AFTER HAVING THE CAR FOR A WEEK MY MECHANIC REPLACED A FAULTY GROUND AND THE BATTERY. THE CAR STILL DOESN'T WORK PROPERLY. HE HAS NO IDEA WHY. *TR

I RECENTLY RAN INTO A MAJOR ISSUE WITH MY 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED WHICH REALLY SCARED ME. I WAS ROTATING THE TIRES ON THE CAR AND WHEN I WAS REMOVING THE WHEEL FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE CAR I NOTICED THAT THE WHEEL WOBBLED BACK AND FORTH. AT FIRST I THOUGHT THIS WAS JUST A BAD BALL JOINT AND PURCHASED A NEW ONE TO REPLACE IT. WHEN I STARTED TO REMOVE THE FACTORY INSTALLED BALL JOINT I NOTICED THAT THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE BALL JOINT TO THE LOWER CONNECTION JOINT WAS ON THE VERGE OF COMING OFF. I FIND THIS VERY DISTURBING AS I LIVE IN A VERY MOUNTAINOUS STATE WITH MANY CURVY ROADS AND STEEP DROP OFFS. HAD THIS NUT FINISHED COMING OFF WHILE ON ONE OF THESE ROADS I MAY NOT BE WRITING THIS LETTER. I WILL ALSO CONTACT NAFTA ABOUT THIS SITUATION AS IT MAY BE OCCURRING ON MORE VEHICLES THAN JUST MINE. I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO BE REIMBURSED FOR THE PART I HAD INSTALLED AS IT IN ITSELF WAS NOT DEFECTIVE. I HAVE BOUGHT MANY FORD VEHICLES AND WILL PROBABLY CONTINUE TO AS I THINK OVERALL FORD MAKES A HIGH QUALITY CAR. I HAVE SINCE CHECKED THE OTHER SIDE AND FOUND NO PROBLEMS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THANKS FOR LOOKING INTO THIS MATTER AND I HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SOON! *TR

MY HUSBAND HAD AN ACCIDENT IN A STORE PARKING LOT. HE MISCALCULATED THE LENGTH OF AN NARROW ISLAND THAT HAD A CURBING AROUND IT. HE CUT THE CORNER AND DROVE OVER THE CURB AND DOWN THE OTHER SIDE OF THE OTHER CURB. BESIDES THE REAR FENDER DAMAGE, MORE DAMAGE WAS DISCOVERED AT THE STATE INSPECTION. THE ROLL RESTRICTOR WAS TORN. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS PART KEEPS THE ENGINE FROM "ROLLING" FORWARD OR BACKWARD. IT IS PART OF THE ENGINE MOUNT SYSTEM AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE. IT MUST BE REPLACED OR THE CAR FAILS THE PA STATE INSPECTION. THIS REPAIR AND INSPECTIONS COST ME OVER $500. I BELIEVE THE ROLL RESTRICTOR WAS DAMAGED IN THE SUDDEN IMPACT OF THE CURB. I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE THAT ISSUE TO THE INSURANCE COMPANY BUT I HAVE NO PROOF. HOW COMMON IS THE FAILURE OF THIS PART? IS IT PART OF THE PA STATE INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS? *TR

ON A TRIP SOUTH ON AN INTERSTATE, MY CAR OVERHEATED. THERE WAS BUMPER TO BUMPER TRAFFIC ON A HOT DAY. I HAD MY AIR CONDITIONER ON AND WE WERE ONLY TRAVELING AT 5-10 MPH. A SERVICE STATION DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AND FOUND AN ELECTRICAL SHORT IN A COMPUTER MODULE WHICH CONTROLS THE RADIATOR FAN. THIS PROBLEM RESULTED IN A $700 REPAIR BILL. *TR

WHILE BACKING UP CAR SURGED AND CAUSED REAR BUMPER DAMAGE. THROTTLE BODY CLEANED TWICE SINCE PURCHASE AND SURGE ISSUE REAPPEARS. SURGE OCCURS AT LOW RPM'S. *TR

WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, ALL OF THE GAUGES ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER STOPPED FUNCTIONING AND DISPLAYED READINGS OF ZERO. CONTINUED TO DRIVE AND THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BEGAN WORKING A FEW MOMENTS LATER. THE FAILURE OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE REVERSE LIGHTS COME ON EVEN WHEN IN DRIVE. THIS, AS WELL AS NO SPEEDOMETER TO ME IS VERY DANGEROUS. I THINK CORRECTIVE ACTION SHOULD BE TAKEN TOWARDS A RESOLUTION. THERE ARE COUNTLESS OTHERS WHO HAVE FILED COMPLAINTS AND CONCERNS REGARDING THIS VERY ISSUE. PLEASE ISSUE A RECALL ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL REPLACEMENT. I FEEL THE COST OF REPLACEMENT (AS WELL AS A DIAGNOSIS FEE) SHOULD NOT BE ABSORBED BY THE CONSUMER FOR SOMETHING THAT IS NOT NORMAL MAINTENANCE FOR THE VEHICLE!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SIDE MIRROR ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CAUGHT FIRE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THERE WAS A SHORT IN THE WIRING HARNESS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 82,172.

THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME I HAVE COMPLAINED NOR AM I THE ONLY ONE HAVING THIS ISSUE. I BOUGHT THE CAR BACK IN 2010 AND INFORMED THE CAR LOT OF FLICKERING LIGHTS WELL NOW ITS GONE AS FAR AS MY WHOLE DASH LIGHTS FLICKER AND WHEN THEY COME BACK THEY DO NOT COME BACK CORRECTLY ALL THE TIME. MY GAS GAUGE DOESN'T REGISTER PROPERLY. THIS HAPPENS WHEN I RUN THE AC. WHEN I HAD IT CHECKED I WAS TOLD THAT IT HAD SOMETHING DO WITH BATTERY. THE ALTERNATOR IS PULLING TOO MUCH POWER WHEN AC IS ON. WELL IF I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE HAVING THIS ISSUE I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THIS IS NOT GETTING A BETTER SETTLING BESIDES OH I THINK IT IS THIS OR I THINK IT IS THAT. I HAVE SEARCHED YOUTUBE AND THERE ARE A LOT OF PPL HAVING THIS ISSUE. A WHOLE LOT OF PPL. I AM GOING TO GO HAVE MY BATTERY CHECKED AGAIN AND TAKE BACK TO CAR LOT AGAIN AND HOPE TO HAVE A SOLUTION. THIS IS GETTING REALLY RIDICULOUS AND BAD. I CAN RUN MY AC FOR MAY 10 MINUTES WITHOUT THIS HAPPENING AND ONCE I DO THE CAR DOESN'T WANNA RUN PROPERLY AFTER. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS AND REACH OUT TO OTHER OWNERS AND SEE IF THEY ARE HAVING SAME ISSUES. MAYBE THEY DON'T KNOW HOW OT REACH YOU LIKE I DID. *TR

CAR STALLED WITHOUT ANY PRIOR INCIDENT, OR WARNING. AS SOON PUT MY CAR INTO DRIVE, IT LURCHED AND WOULD NOT MOVE. WHEN I PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL, NOTHING HAPPENED. AFTER A FEW MORE ATTEMPTS, IT MOVED AT 10-20 MPH. I STALLED COMPLETELY CLOSE TO HOME. *TR