Chevrolet Captiva 2014 — Problemas reportados

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The vehicle was purchased through a dealer sale. The mileage at the time of the purchase was 140,436. It was discovered four days later that there was a mileage discrepancy. The odometer suddenly turned to 228,000. The contact was unable to obtain a title. The state attorney general was contacted, who referred to the state, who failed to answer the phone and the NHTSA hotline.

I was sold this vehicle, and was not notified it was a salvaged car, or the fact that it had been in 2 accidents .

This car is a 2014 chevy captiva it has had multiple leaks that I have repaired on my own the engine gussles up gas like there's no tomorrow and then on hot days even though all liquids are filled will randomly have a check engine code and a reduced engine code amd service stabiltek system come on all at once. Now in this car I replaced the fuel pump, up and down 02 sensors the whole catalytic system front from to back and this issue still happens. Something is internally wrong with this car.and when the car decides to through these codes it makes a percolating sound like a pot of coffee is almost done brewing in the cabin of the car.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva Sport. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle experienced a loss of power steering assist. The vehicle then lost motive power. No warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was coasted to the side of the road. Upon inspection, there was white smoke coming from the engine, and there was no engine oil on the dipstick. The contact added oil to the engine. The contact stated that the vehicle previously had an oil change; however, the engine consumed an excessive amount of oil. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

I got into a car accident someone pulled in front of me and I hit them and my air bags didn’t go off

My car consistently burned through oil despite getting regular oil changes and checks. The oil burned through before I was aware and the car now needs a new engine that will cost more than it’s worth

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while in the vehicle, she noticed smoke filling the interior of the vehicle. Upon visual inspection, she noticed the smoke originating from a fire on the passenger side visor. The contact stated that she was able to extinguish the fire herself after removing the visor from the vehicle. A police or fire report was not filed. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who failed to provide a diagnosis as to the cause of the failure. The vehicle was repaired as the visor was replaced, but the failure reoccurred.  When the failure occurred, the second visor light was blinking as the driver's side visor light was inoperable. The contact stated that the vehicle temperature gauge also increased. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, who diagnosed an additional failure with the exhaust manifold. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number 15V879000 (Electrical System, Interior Lighting), but the vehicle was not included in the recall.  The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 134,742.

Key gets stuck in the ignition. Turns off to ACC, but won’t turn back to LOCK. Cannot remove key.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that on several occasions while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power, stalled, and failed to restart. The check engine and service traction warning lights were illuminated. The contact also stated that on various occasions she was unable to remove the key from the ignition after turning off the vehicle and that the power seat was inoperable. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic on various occasions, where the failure could not be duplicated, and the contact was advised to take the vehicle to a local dealer for further diagnostic test and repair. The vehicle was taken and towed to the local dealer on various occasions, where the failures could not be duplicated, and the vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that on various occasions, the vehicle stalled and then lost motive power. The vehicle failed to restart and was towed back to the dealer on several occasions, where it was diagnosed that the Central Body Control Modules (BCMs) remote key housing and the ignition lock cylinder needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure persisted, and the vehicle was towed back to the dealer, where the failures could not be duplicated. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 72,123.

Electrical system dies unexpectedly. Stabilitrac system alert lights up and car starts shifting like crazy. All warning lights flash and door locks and dome lights start flashing. This happens even when driving on the highway. Very dangerous and needs to be addressed immediately.

2014 Chevrolet Captiva on Friday July 8th 2022, The sun visor catch on fire from the passenger seat. The reasons still are unknown. The issue could be ending in a disaster and I have to claim this problem as fast as I can

Drive Belt Tensioner is broken, causing loud noise under the hood. The belt could be affected if not repaired and confirmed by Firestone Auto Care. Nothing else but Chevy GM will not fix the issue even though there is a specific service campaign bulletin in regards to the issue.

I was involved in a car accident that totaled my car and it was front damage my air bags did not come out. My car is with my insurance company. No messages or lamps etc had been on prior to the accident.

The key is stuck and will not release from my ignition. I have tried numerous ways to get the key out and it just won't come out. I have had to disconnect my battery so that it doesn't drain my battery, but the issue is still there. I can't use my car to go to work due to the fact my key won't come out. This has really put me in a bind and is unacceptable. I don't have the money to have this fixed and I would like for the manufacturer to help me out. This is a real safety issue. I have had my car looked at by a mechanic and he is unsure of exactly how to fix this.

The key intermediately gets stuck in the ignition and will not come out, have to wiggle and move steering wheel and move from park to drive then try repeated times to get the key out. This appears to be a common problem with 2014 captivas.

My car suddenly started acting funny and was not running well while i was driving, when i got to a stop sign it totally died. It was towed to a shop and was totally out of oil, my car wasn't even 1500 miles over it's last oil change. The engine was totally ruined and needed to be replaced. THis again seems to be a common problem with these engines that they just go out using all the oil in the vehicle unexpectedly.

Key stuck in ignition causing anti theft lock which causes battery to die

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that occasionally while his wife was stopped for either a traffic sign or traffic light, the engine would make a grinding noise. The contact stated that the vehicle was consuming a lot of engine oil, requiring constant refilling every week. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the timing chain replaced. The contact spoke with a dealer and asked if the VIN was under recall. The contact was informed that the VIN was not under recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 115,000.

The key keeps getting stuck in the ignition once the car is off. This prevents me from being able to leave my car unattended. I was trying to go grocery shopping and couldn't because the key wouldn't come out of the ignition for me to lock the doors. 01/04/2022. The most recent time this happened before today was about 2 weeks ago 12/21/2021. I tried starting the vehicle again and turning it off and it still wouldn't allow the key to release. My husband was able to get the key out the last after several hours. We will be scheduling an appointment with service center when an appointment becomes available to have it inspected. Based on research this has been an issue with captiva's in the past.

Driving vehicle all of a sudden it just cut off with no warning . Lost power just went dead and would not start back up had to get towed.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that the front passenger's side door handle fractured from the inside. The vehicle was taken to the body shop where it was replaced. The contact mentioned that the front driver’s door and rear passenger’s door handles were fractured from the inside. The contact informed the dealer of the defect. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

WHEN TURNING THE IGNATION OFF, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN OFF, IT STAY'S IN THE OPEN POSITION KEEPING THE ELECTRICAL PART OF THE CAR FROM TURNING OFF, WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ELECTRIAL FIRE. I AM UNABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNATION, IT MAKES THE CAR BATTERY RUN DOWN, AND SOMETIMES THE WIRES SEEM TO GET HOT FROM THIS.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that the key was stuck in the ignition. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact spoke with the local dealer and was quoted a diagnostic fee. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure however, no further assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 34,000.

Check engine code P0420. Exhaust Manifold was found to be cracked. Already repaired

Key gets stuck in ignition. Lose all power WHILE DRIVING or parked! Requires a jiggle on the battery cable to restore power. Radio loses power randomly while driving. a/c shuts off. This has been happening since we bought the car in June 2021.

The key gets stuck in ignition and can't be removed when in park. If key can't be removed and remains in the car, it will drain the battery. The key gets stuck often maybe every other trip but at least once a day. This started happening over the last 6 months on random occasions but has increased in frequency in the last 30 days. It's now a regular event in which the key won't release from the ignition. Sometimes after multiple attempts at restarting the car and changing from park to drive and then to park again and changing position of the key, it may release after 20 minutes of this process. This is a safety issue because the car can be stolen with a key left in the ignition and/or the battery will be drained. Both are not good. There are numerous reports of this issue on the internet from other other with same car.

Key gets stuck in ignition and takes many tries to get it out, even from day one of buying it. Was informed that was a "safety" feature provided by Chevy themselves. When shutting off the vehicle, everything dies out like the battery went completely dead and car won't start again. Have to play with battery wires and fuse box before I hear the car make any noise again. Was informed by more than one mechanic that there are GM recalls for the thermal cable, battery protective cable, and starter motors, but nothing for my VIN has popped up. Have found almost 100 other complaints on multiple sites and more than a dozen reported accidents due to this issue. Car sits at almost 98,000 miles now and it will not turn over for me. Recalls should be put out for the entirety of this model because I have met 2 other people who have had the exact same problem and were informed that the dealerships have refused to acknowledge prior recall or safety information.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated while attempting to shut-off the vehicle, the key ceased in the accessory position. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 43,000.

I HAVE TO PUT 1-3 QUARTS OF OIL IN MY CAR AT LEAST 2-3 TIMES BEFORE MY NEXT OIL CHANGE. IT BURNS WAY TO MUCH OIL.

WE WERE INVOLVED IN A DOMINO EFFECT ACCIDENT, WHERE MY CAR WAS TOTALED. IT SUFFERED SEVERE FRONT AND REAR DAMAGE, WITH THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED AS WE WERE STRUCK FROM BEHIND WHILE STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON AN INTERSTATE. NONE OF THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF, SHE ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE CHILD FORM THE CAR SEAT AND WAS UNABLE TO UNLATCH THE SEAT BELT FROM THE BUCKLE. THE CONTACT STATED SHE HAD TO CUT THE REAR DRIVER'S SEAT BELT STRAP WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT RECENTLY WHILE A PASSENGER WAS SEATED IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT THE SHOULDER STRAP WAS PLACED BEHIND THE PASSENGER HOWEVER, THE LAP STRAP WAS IN FRONT AND THE SEAT BELT WAS LATCHED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN SHE ATTEMPTED TO UNLATCH THE SEAT BELT IT FAILED TO UNLATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 118,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TRUCK KEEPS CUTTING OFF!!

THE VEHICLE IDLE CONTROL BEGAN MISBEHAVING, WHETHER STATIONARY OR IN MOTION. THE CAR CONSTANTLY IDLED HIGHER THAN IT SHOULD, EVEN AFTER A THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT AND FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT. NOW THE CAR IS RIDING WORSE THAN EVER, WITH A LOT OF VIBRATION IN THE STEERING COLUMN/BRAKES, WHICH HAPPENS SITTING STILL AND WORSENS AS THE SPEED CLIMBS. THE WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMPS (FRONT AND BACK) HAVE BOTH GONE OUT. THE SUSPENSION IS HORRIBLE AND DESPITE NEW TIRES, BALANCING, ROTATION, ALIGNMENTS...BRAKES/ROTORS, YOU NAME IT ... THE CAR JUST DOESN'T DRIVE VERY SMOOTHLY. NOW THE ENGINE IS KNOCKING AND THE TIMING CHAIN SOUNDS LIKE IT IS IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. I DOUBT I WILL EVER BUY ANOTHER CHEVY, DESPITE BEING LOYAL TO THE BRAND AND ONLY PURCHASING CHEVYS. HIGHLY DISAPPOINTED IN THEIR CRAFTSMANSHIP, IF YOU CAN CALL IT THAT.

USSE TOO MUCH OIL, HAVE TO PUT 2 QUARTS IN BETWEEN OIL CHANGES, 3000 MILES. THE CAR WAS RUNNING SITTING AND THE CAR SHUT OFF. THEN WHEN WE LEFT THERE A LOT OF OIL ON THE PARKING LOT. A MESSAGE CAME ON AND IT SAID TO ADD OIL, WE PUT 3 QTS IN AND DROVE ABOUT 14 MILES AND THE CAR WAS OUT OF OIL

MY KEY KEEP GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION IT WON'T TURN ON LOCK TO GET THE KEY OUT.

WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, SOMETIMES I CAN'T GET THE KEY TO TURN OFF THE CAR. I HAVE TO BACK UP, PULL FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES THEN FINALLY SOMETIMES I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. I WAS COMPLETELY STOPPED AND IN PARK. IT HAPPENS A LOT.

THE CAPTIVA SUDDENLY SHUTS DOWN RANDOMLY FOR ABSOLUTELY NO REASON. THE ISSUE WAS DIRECTED TO BE REPAIRED IN THE OTHER CHEVY VEHICLES BECAUSE THEY ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN HOWEVER THE CAPTIVA IS A FLEET VEHICLE WHICH MEANS THEY DIDN'T FIX THE KNOWN ISSUE OF PUTTING A FORD BATTERY SENSOR ON A CHEVY VEHICLE BECAUSE FLEET VEHICLES ARE RARELY SERVICED BY A DEALERSHIP. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE IF THEY HAVEN'T ALREADY. THIS HAPPENED TO ME LOSING ALL POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN GOING 65 MPH ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME. I'VE NOT DRIVEN THIS CAR SINCE AUGUST BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DIE AND I STILL OWE ABOUT 4 YEARS OF PAYMENTS ON THIS LEMON.

PCV SYSTEM DEFECTIVE, BAD OIL CONSUMPTION AND ENGINE NOISES WHILE IDLE-DRIVING

ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE VEHICLE CUTS OUT RANDOMLY, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SHUT DOWN IF DRIVING AND LOSING POWER STEERING CONTROL AND POWER BRAKES OR THE POWER PARKING BRAKE RANDOMLY ENGAGES, CREATING THE POTENTIAL FOR A DRIVING HAZARD. POWER ALSO CUTS OUT RANDOMLY WHICH CAUSES THE VEHICLE NOT TO START. DRIVER HAS TO OPEN THE HOOD AND MANUALLY MOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, SOMETIMES MULTIPLE TIMES, IN ORDER FOR POWER TO BE RESTORED. THIS MANUAL MOVE PUTS THE PERSON IN IMMEDIATE DANGER OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK SHOULD ANYTHING CREATE A POWER ARC WHILE PERFORMING THIS MANEUVER. GM SERVICE BULLETIN #13186 DATED JUNE 2013 ADDRESSES THIS ISSUE WITH A DEFECT IN THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, BUT LIMITS IT ONLY TO THE WARRANTY PERIOD ONLY OF THE NEW VEHICLE AND NOT THE VEHICLE AS A WHOLE, YET NO RECALL HAS EVER BEEN ISSUED. BASED ON COMMENTS POSTED ON THE CHEVY FORUM, THIS PROBLEM IS CONSISTENT AND WIDESPREAD ACROSS THE CHEVY CAPTIVA VEHICLES. IT IS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME WHEN ONE OF THESE RANDOM POWER SHUTDOWNS LEADS TO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT OR DEATH. AT THE PRESENT TIME WE ARE FORCED TO REPLACE BOTH THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES AT A COST OF $590.

2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT LT MANIFOLD CRACKED CAUSING LEAK AND FUMES GOING INSIDE THE CAR. DOING RESEARCH I FOUND ARTICLE ABOUT THE CHEVROLET EQUINOX HAVING SAME ISSUE AND IT HAS A RECALL.